M.Y. China

Do you remember the show Yan Can Cook? Well it turns out he can and you can taste just how well at his eponymous restaurant. I was first brought here by a second-generation Chinese American friend who grew up in San Francisco. At first I scoffed, “Dim sum in a mall? And where are the carts?” Then came a parade of ready to order dishes that won me over. “The best thing,” she explained, “people don’t know it’s here so you can always get in.” It’s been our weekend standby ever since. Get the spicy seafood dumplings. The sauce is spicy, sweet, sour, with chunks of garlic and chili pepper. So good. And they come in a spinach wrapper, which has a really nice, delicate flavor. Skip the jasmine tea for the milk oolong, creamy and nuanced it won’t overpower the flavor of the dumplings.